TRAVELLIN' WITH THE CROWEATERS

The first part of this post is written by our mate Neil who then hands over to me, Chris for the latter part of the trip after we left Bowen.

We were a couple of croweaters from the York Peninsula, South Australia, seeking warmth in the ambient areas along the Queensland coast. Being a convert to birding a decade ago as a result of a long friendship with Dave ‘Lumpy’ Milson now residing at Mapoon on Cape York, we were counting birds instead of the usual cans back at our recycling depot at Kadina, SA. For years my wife had kept a list of residents and visitors that had flown in to feed, water, shelter or rest on our larger than normal house site. The latest addition was a grey fantail that took the total to 38, which is probably the number of New Holland Honeyeaters that reside and raise their young all around our home.

Goodbyes all round saw us on the road with caravan in tow and binoculars within reach. A pleasant surprise were regent parrots in the township of Loxton on the River Murray. Frequent sightings of red-rumps became the norm for days to come. 

At Lake Boga we had ducks on the doorstep of our caravan but this wasn’t my idea of birding. We caught up with an old friend at Echuca and pushed out to Picola in search again of superb parrots. It has become a bit of a joke that whilst not being always at the right time, I have had several failed attempts to find this pretty parrot and yep – missed it again.

Nearing Albury-Wodonga had me in in contact with a friend who I’d previously met at Glue Pot some years ago where he was photographing scarlet-chested parrots. Over a cup of tea we added a new bird to our list – the turquoise parrot. We were privileged to watch them for several hours as they watered at the edge of a dam, fed on the ground and with swift wings, flew amongst the tall timber. 

Consumed by our new bird we paid little attention to yellow-tufted and fuscous honeyeaters feeding and watering as well. Numerous white-throated treecreepers were lovely at close distances as well as abundant numbers of eastern rosellas, dusky wood swallows, flame robins and golden whistlers.

We continued at an easy pace and encountered the gorgeous eastern spinebills wildly fluttering and feeding in the gardens of Beechworth. My wife, ever alert, was astute enough to look up amongst the golden leaves of a large liquid amber tree to gaze upon a pair of gang gang cockatoos having breakfast. How good? – right in the heart of Beechworth. By evening we were camped alongside the River Murray at Jingellic and enjoyed watching thirty or more king parrots feasting on crab apples, all within ten feet of us – no need for binos.

Inclement weather saw us admiring lots of crimson rosellas along the roadside. We bought some great T bone steaks at Tumbarumba – supposedly Murray grey stock – and were lucky enough to find some dinner-plate size field mushrooms. What a meal!

Boorowa next, known as THE spot for the superb parrot. But the only superb in sight was a template of one on the bakery façade. Superb country but no superbs. On to Mudgee where we were welcomed by in excess of sixty red-rumps feeding on the lawns flanking the main road, not perturbed by traffic in the least!

It is always nice to spend a night in the Warrumbungles amongst butcherbirds, red-browed finches, grey fantails and sulphur-crested cockatoos preparing nesting sites. We departed perfectly trimmed camping grounds which are kindly manicured by the local kangaroos.

Admiring cockatiels in flight amongst rays of sunshine, we set off for Gulargambone to the west of the Warrumbungles, enjoying the warmth of the sun in the car and marvelling at the acrobatic ability of the black-shouldered kites. To our absolute delight, what should alight from the verdant green roadside grasses but the elusive superb parrots. So good – so easy – so pretty! and in no rush to escape our presence. We watched them roosting in the wilga trees for quite a while before continuing our journey toward Bingara, feeling very satisfied.

Camping on the banks of the Gwydir River is a treat anyway, but how delightful was sharing it with a pair of pale-headed rosellas with their bright red patch on the nape of the neck? There are lots of variations in the rosellas and this was pretty special. 

The ensuing bad weather made for pubs with fires and counter meals as we travelled through Glen Innes, Tenterfield and some high rise therapy on the beach at Mooloolaba. Birding gave way to massages, coffee and the Eumundi markets.

We love our current caravan but had fond memories of 30 years previous with kids on board and an old Viscount with three bunks at the rear. We were now looking forward to the lovely area of Agnes Waters and 1770, where our old van had taken us previously. On route we had a lovely stop at Rosedale, a small village with probably no more than 20 or so houses. Here at the quaint tea rooms while enjoying coffee and a meal amidst the shade of large rain trees and poincianas, we were entertained by dusky, brown and blue-faced honeyeaters. Some naughty boys - grey-crowned babblers - paid us a visit as well and kept us amused with their boisterous antics.

On a lovely, sunny, near-perfect day, we arrived at Agnes Waters. Whilst investigating a camp site south of town we had a real treat. In an area the size of a footy oval adjacent camping grounds surrounded by bush, we sighted fairy warblers, rufous whistlers, leaden flycatchers, and the lovely spectacled monarch. If you haven’t noticed yet, pied butcherbirds, willy wag tails, silvereyes etc don’t count on trips – until you decide to do a count. And I started counting now because this area promised a lot.

A wonga pigeon was another tick in my dog-eared Slaters Field Guide which is held together with sticky tape. Our Bushtracker caravan was parked under some shade and we settled in to the sounds of red-tailed black-cockatoos. They were feeding daily on the beach almonds that fringed our home on the sandy banks of Round Hill Creek at 1770. Beautifully structured parks with lit boardwalks along the beach led through some tall timber to the Tree Hotel. This ¼ kilometre boardwalk became my haunt morning and night for four days. Of the 64 or so birds encountered at Agnes Waters/1770, this area accounted for most.

The list included double-barred finches, honeyeaters in abundance – mostly Lewins and duskies – as well as brown, varied, white-cheeked and white throated. Varied trillers were easy targets and blue-faced honeyeaters, noisy friarbirds, olive-backed orioles, laughing kookaburras, figbirds and peaceful doves in abundant supply.

Some juvenile cuckoos drove me to research and identify fan-tailed cuckoos and a better look at the belly of the bronze cuckoos led me to establish the presence of shining bronze cuckoos. While pelicans and pairs of pied oystercatchers paraded and fossicked on the beach, sacred kingfishers were like sentinels watching everything. On route to the bar at the Tree Hotel overlooking the bay, with its swaying yachts, what does my wife find? The lovely rose-crowned fruit dove.

Reluctantly we left this lovely area with its small mistletoe birds and large white-breasted sea-eagles and travelled north to Yeppoon. Here we daily watched a pair of brahminy kites perch on rocks at the beach, eating their catch and then soaring above. 

I found myself talking to Fran at the Mill Gallery. She told me of her recent visit from a rufous fantail which flew into the shop. A different visitor. Her directions saw us in some lovely wetlands around Limestone creek at Barmoya where normal residents include ducks, cormorants, swans and egrets. Good to learn that Buff Breasted Paradise Kingfisher come as far south as Byfield to breed.

As we continued north on the old Bruce Highway to Sarina and on to Finch Hatton, we were getting closer to friends Chris and John Storrie and Leo the dog in Bowen, from whom we had purchased our  van. On a previous visit they had taken us to Eungella on the escarpment overlooking the lovely Pioneer Valley. Hoping to take another opportunity to find the elusive Eungella honeyeater, we travelled up the range with sunshine on our backs early in the morning. But clouds and wind made for a poor look at several of these honeyeaters – a tick but no satisfaction. Second prize was a pair of regent bowerbirds at Broken River. Sweet!

We depart Finch Hatton. Road-kill along the highway has black kites and whistling kites circling in anticipation of a feed. Arriving at Airlie Beach, the caravan park again has ducks welcoming us only this time it was the lovely plumed whistling duck. Numerous bush-stone curlews are also non-paying residents at this park.

Red wine and the crackling of roast pork in the weber welcomed us to Chris and John’s home in Bowen. It was decided that they should hitch up so we could all head bush together again. It is always great to camp in a terrific spot, see beautiful birds and be with fantastic friends. 

Four bushies and two Bushtrackers

Chris, who is also an avid bird watcher, will now take over the story from this croweater and tell you about our wonderful finds on the Burdekin and Herbert Rivers.

Our first morning at Mount Fox found us camped beside a creek which had become a series of waterholes due to the very dry conditions. It was probably for this reason that there were several different birds visiting. Our attention was particularly drawn to the little azure kingfisher that we spied roosting on an old tree root on the opposite bank of the creek. This beautiful little bird was obviously on lookout duty, patiently watching and waiting for breakfast. 

We watched and waited patiently as well and were rewarded when we observed a fine catch of a small fish which was promptly transported to a small hole in the side of the muddy creek-bank. It was evident that this was the bird’s nest as, on closer inspection of the area just below the entrance, we noticed a sizeable area of white bird droppings. We were all thrilled to be able to watch this beautiful little bird busily hunting for food for the young that we presumed were safely tucked away in the nest. Other observations here included rainbow and scaly-breasted lorikeets, a fantail cuckoo, an emu and red-backed fairy-wrens.

This lagoon is normally fully but the lack of rain has left it all but dry.

The next morning saw us well established in a lovely camping spot beside the Burdekin River and this spot provided the highlight of this particular birding venture. Our only hiccup (apart from our first ever flat on the cruiser) was Neil's discovering that his towbar was just about to fall apart. Fortunately a quick dash to the nearest little town saw it fixed next day.

Red claw are abundant in the Burdekin.

You know how there are certain birds that  ‘jump’ out at you every time you see them as you browse through your trusty bird guide. Well the Pacific Baza was one of those for me. I really thought that my chances of spotting one were pretty slim. But when you hook up with great mates who are hooked on bird watching like you are, you should believe that fantastic things can happen. There I was doing what most people do first thing in the morning when I heard the words “Pacific Baza”. I thought I was hearing things but pricked my ears and sure enough Drogs is saying those magic words again. WELL! I was up and out of the van so quick I amazed even myself. “Did you say Pacific Baza Drogs? What? Where?” I couldn’t believe this was happening. I know this sounds ridiculous to most people but I think avid birders will understand. Not just one, but a pair of these birds had cruised over our camp. Drogs nailed them immediately, recognising their aerobatics in flight. They eventually perched high in a gum straight across the river from our camp and there they stayed for at least half an hour. During that time Neil’s wife Sue even got to see them consummate the relationship and we all got to take some great photos. I was ecstatic for the rest of the day. This sighting had made my trip.

While walking along the riverbank that same morning I got to spend quality time with a family of red-winged parrots who just sat quietly watching me. They were to pass over our camp several times during our stay and each time we could not help but admire their vivid red, green and blue plumage. Being such a constant water source, the Burdekin is obviously a secure and reliable refuge for a wide variety of birds, even in the current drought. 

Each night our camp was also visited by a tawny frogmouth that would perch in the trees above our fire and watch us. Blue-faced honeyeaters were prolific as were the little grey fantails. During our three-day stay we also sighted brolgas, kites, pelicans, Australian wood ducks, blue-winged and laughing kookaburras, rainbow lorikeets, rufous whistlers, leaden flycatchers, white-throated honeyeaters, rainbow bee-eaters, egrets, apostlebirds, currawongs, galahs, red-tailed black and sulphur crested cockatoos and a little pied cormorant.

While camping on the Burdekin we visited family friends on a nearby property and were delighted to be treated to a tour of their impressive collection of Australian and exotic birds.

Despite the dry they have an unlimited source of water on the property which attracts many local species including galahs, apostlebirds and wood ducks.

We were all pretty impressed with this true piece of bush art and ingenuity.

Neil's figurehead is pretty impressive too!

Our next camp was on the Herbert River and again we were totally amazed at the diversity of birdlife we encountered. Many were of the smaller varieties which, because they are usually amidst thick foliage and they never seem to be still, can be a challenge to identify. Having more than one enthusiast observing the same bird proved a real advantage for us. While somebody might be looking at beaks, legs and head, someone else might be checking out tail, wings, size etc. In this way we managed to positively identify 21 species during our explorations along the Herbert, including white-throated, yellow-spotted, brown, yellow and scarlet honeyeaters, red-winged parrot, lemon-bellied and leaden flycatchers, olive-backed oriole, red-browed finch, grey and rufous whistler, brush cuckoo, striated pardalote, yellow thornbill, weebill and squatter pigeon. What a wonderful spot!

This old timber bridge is obviously stronger than it looks.

While camping on the Herbert we visited the ruins of Cashmere homestead and the nearby cemetary where we gained a small insight into the history of the area.

This rock wall is just about all that's left of what must have once been an impressive homestead on Cashmere Station.

We also visited Blenco Falls and Blenco Creek where there is a choice of several campsites. 

Herbert River gorge from Blenco Falls lookout.

Blenco Falls

Blenco Creek

After sharing so many wonderful birding moments, I know we were all somewhat sad to be parting company at the end of our Burdekin/Herbert River experience. But the great thing is that we know we will get together again, hopefully many more times and share our love of this wonderful obsession that is “bird watching”.

NEW SOUTH WALES SOUTH COAST

Wonboyn Lake turned out to be a lovely place. When we first arrived at the caravan park, we thought ‘what the?’ - but once we finally managed to get the van into our site and took a look around we really did like the place. The park owner, Bucky, is very easy going and the amenities are very clean. A van site cost us $30 a night. TV is only available at a few sites and the cabins aren’t really waterfront but the birdlife is amazing. I sighted over 30 different species but missed out on seeing the elusive lyrebirds which are apparently very common in the area.

The local satin bower bird had built a bower across the road from the park.

Unfortunately the heavy rain had left the water in the lake very brown so there was no point fishing. We were glad we hadn’t gone to the trouble of bringing the tinny but will definitely bring it if we come down again. The park has its own private jetty down at the bay and the local oyster growers have their shed there as well so if you want to buy oysters they’re handy. Again, due to the rain they weren’t harvesting. We’re told the Lake is great for flathead, whiting etc and it is quite sheltered so would be lovely in good weather.

Wonboyn Lake 

We drove out to Nadgee Nature Reserve which is typical coastal scrub with lots of really big banksia trees. 

This half opened banksia flower turns into the pod below -
inspiration for May Gibb's big bad Banksia Men.

The coastline is quite beautiful and spectacular and with the strong wind there was a good swell running at the beach. The track into the reserve isn’t bad and it would be a lovely place for a picnic, swim and bushwalking on a nice day. 

I would check the beach for blue bottles though.

Next day we took a short drive south to Mallacoota where we discovered another beautiful spot. The local council maintain a huge area of the foreshore on Mallacoota Inlet where there are around 800 campsites. There is plenty of room with lots of amenities blocks and power if required for $28 a night in the shoulder season. The town itself has plenty of good shops and is very neat and tidy. Again, the fishing is also good in the inlet. School holidays would not be a good time to visit I’d say, especially in the summer as the population swells by the thousands.

Mallaoota campground above and the view out to the ocean below.

From Wonboyn Lake we headed north up the Princes Highway through Eden to Bega, where we found a good little spot at the Showgrounds. The amenities block here was OK and the showers were hot. It was good value at $15 a night. The old pavilion here is a lovely building from the grand old days when the local show was the biggest event of the year.

While at Bega we paid a visit to the Bega Cheese Factory. Unfortunately we found it rather ho hum. There were some interesting old things in the museum area but the cheeses weren’t very exciting and like most tourist places, the prices in the gift shop were over the top. We were disappointed. Instead of discovering some delicious new cheeses we came away empty-handed.

After Bega we headed back to the coast and Tathra, a really pretty little seaside village with a quaint old jetty. Again, while it was fairly quiet I’d imagine it would be pumping during the school holidays and as with all of the seaside places along the coast, accommodation prices are inflated during holidays.

The old jetty at Tathra.

Further north is Bermagui, another lovely place but much bigger than Tathra. When we fuelled up here the price was 10c a litre cheaper than in Bega. Go figure! About 20 klms north or Bermagui is the turnoff to Mystery Bay. Here you will find a terrific camping ground called Mystery Bay Primitive Camping Reserve. Management of the reserve is contracted out by the Eurobodalla Shire Council. It cost us $8 per person per night. There is plenty of town water available as well as some cold showers and pit toilets but the grounds themselves are very big, with a choice of campsites either close to the beach, in the bush or atop the cliffs overlooking the ocean and Montague Island just off the coast. Most of the sites are very shady, being scattered throughout the bush. We chose a site up at the back of the reserve where there were some spots which got more sun for the solar power. The view from the door of the van was quite spectacular.

Unfortunately the wind was rather strong for most of our stay and we were a bit worried about having our awning out. But we tied it down well and it stayed put. Since the school holidays were upon us, we decided to stay at Mystery Bay until we were booked into the caravan park at Nowra. Every day more people arrived so we figured the camps further north would be filling up as well and we loved the spot we had here.

Late afternoon at Mystery Bay Campground.

Just west of Mystery Bay is a gem of a little place called Central Tilba. The whole town is Heritage Listed and has been developed as a little tourist attraction, while maintaining the charm of the old buildings. We also discovered that the ABC Cheese Factory here has some fantastic cheeses. It was hard to decide which ones to buy. We ended up with a vintage kalamata & garlic, a vintage blue and a super blue but there are lots of others to choose from. 

As you walk through the town, you will also discover a variety of specialist artisan type stores such as a bath kitchen which sells handmade bath bombs etc, a woodturners’ gallery, a toy and puzzles shop and a store specialising in leather goods like handbags, shoes, hats etc. There are a variety of other shops as well as the amazing old Dromedary Hotel. 

Looking up the main street to the Dromedary Hotel, Central Tilba

The town looks out over lush dairy country.

Inside the local store.

We really enjoyed a couple of hours wandering around here but it you are going to pay a visit be aware that parking space is limited, with just one larger parking area at the south end of town.

The closest place to go for groceries is Narooma, just 9 klms north. Again, it is a picturesque town built around a large inlet but a lot of money has been spent on infrastructure here to provide a safe harbour for boats. A channel is maintained with extensive rock walls and a lot of parkland has been developed for recreational purposes. 

The extensive rock walls at Narooma.

A Narooma local lazing in the sun at the lookout.

The golf course here is really impressive, sitting atop a high headland overlooking the ocean. Like Mallacoota, there is a large variety of shopping and dining options for the holiday maker and again, there are large oyster leases in the inlet, as well as lots of oysters growing wild on the rocks of the inlet. Unfortunately they are all pretty small so we decided against going up again to pick some. Tasmania’s giant ‘feral’ oysters have spoilt us.

Mystery Bay Reserve backs onto Eurobodalla National Park so there are plenty of nice walks into the park and down onto the beaches which are interspersed with high rocky cliffs which proved too much of a temptation to some young lads we saw jumping off into the sea. I’m glad their Mums weren’t watching and also that my three boys weren’t there to join them as they no doubt would have. A bit of a worry but boys will be boys. We really enjoyed the walks and the beaches around the campground and even climbed down the cliff below us at high tide to explore the foreshore.

John was also pretty happy when he discovered a patch of mushrooms growing in the reserve. After much asking around and checking on the net we established that they were French brown mushrooms. I still waited until John had eaten one for breakfast before trying them myself. They really were delicious though and we ate wild mushrooms for a few days.

Just a few of the mushrooms John discovered in the campgrounds.

A cute local

The beach is very sheltered and of course Leo loved swimming every day.

We were impressed with this unique home-made camper.

This beautiful ground orchid was growing near our camp.

Our next stop was Palm Beach Caravan Park at Sanctuary Point in St Georges Basin, an inlet adjacent to Jervis Bay. The area itself is quite nice with lots of calm water for fishing in the Basin, but the van park only had one small bay for a van which was very tricky to get into. The facilities were great but at $45 a night we didn’t think it was value for money. I imagine most parks in the area would cost the same and there were several in the area but few take dogs especially in school holidays.

From Sanctuary Point we took a drive back down to the little township of Mogo, 10 klms south of Batemans Bay. It is another old town which has re-invented itself with an eclectic collection of shops, cafes etc aimed at the tourist market. We quite enjoyed a couple of hours wandering around town checking out their unusual wares then took the coast road back to Batemans Bay which was quite scenic.

Interesting name for a store!

One of many beaches between Mogo and Jervis Bay.

For Christmas, we moved up to Nowra where we met up with our boys and spent a couple of days sightseeing in that area. Nowra Showgrounds, where we stayed is quite a nice spot perched high on a cliff above the Shoalhaven River. There is an excellent walking track at the bottom of the cliff which follows the river for quite a distance. While the showgrounds seem popular they aren’t crowded and there is plenty of room. If you need to use the amenities you need to get a key from the information centre in town. It costs $23 per night plus a $20 refundable deposit for the key.

Nowra Showgrounds overlooks the Shoalhaven River.

Nowra is a great spot to use as a base to explore the surrounding area. We took a drive out to Kangaroo Valley and did some exploring along the way with our sons, one of whom is into geo-caching. Our first stop was at the lookout atop Cambewarra Mountain. From here you get impressive views of the surrounding countryside and out to the coast. We could even see the hangars at HMAS Albatross where our son is now based.

In Kangaroo Valley there are a few quaint little shops and galleries to explore. The unusual bridge across the Kangaroo River to the west of town was a popular photo spot for tourists and is also home to the local canoe hire companies which seem to do a great trade. 

Just past the bridge is the turnoff to Bendeela which is a fantastic free camping reserve where we had camped on a previous trip. This spot is also very spacious and of an evening it comes alive when its large population of wombats come out to forage. They are everywhere but all you can see during the day is their huge burrows.

From Bendeela we did some more exploring in the Gerringong Creek area. Again there are lots of lovely walks and in a couple of spots we discovered impressive suspension bridges across the creeks. Of course the boys had to have a swim which they found very refreshing.

Next day we took a drive down to the Jervis Bay area and visited some lovely beaches including Hyams which is popular with the surfers. We also got to visit HMAS Creswell where the kangaroos seemed to have moved in while everyone else was away for the Christmas break. 

From Creswell you can look right around the bay all the way out to Point Perpendicular, an impressive headland at the entrance to Jervis Bay.

One off the beaches adjacent to the Navy Base.

Our final day was spent exploring north of Nowra. We took the highway north with some detours to the coast and stopped at an amazing cemetery at Gerringong, situated atop a headland with fantastic views. 

Further on we had lunch at a lovely little spot on a headland at Bulli. We had eaten here years ago but were disappointed with the food this trip. The beach however was lovely. As in many spots along the NSW south coast, concrete rock pools have been built to provide safer swimming enclosures and they are well used. We even saw fishermen pull in a nice black bream just fishing from the swimming enclosure.

Our last stop was Stanwell Park to watch the hang-gliders and para-gliders soaring above the cliffs. While it looks like it would be amazing I don’t think I’ll be taking a tandem ride any time soon. We did see several people braving it while we were there though. 

Some of the gliders land back at the launching site while others
land at the small park at centre right in the picture above.

All in all I would have to say that this part of our country is impressive, providing a wide range of activities for everyone as well as true scenic beauty.